![]() Such faults are reparable at which time a power flush would be accomplished prior to fluid replacement. Where is the water coming from? Line leaks? The braking system, from the reservoir through the lines and fittings, is a 'closed system'! Water absorbed, if ever any amount, would indicate a break/crack/split along the lineage of the system. NOBODY - ABSOLUTELY NO ONE - has ever documented or substantiated this malarkey about brake fluid boiling, "absorbing water over time" (how much time in that 'time' relates to specific unit(s) of measurement?), any other of the skewed mentions of the last 5 years. I cannot tell you what the price would be, but shop around a little bit and you are probably going to find a better price. It actually makes it easier, quicker, and cheaper (less man hours) for them and they want to charge more for it. (I'm not sure about the legality of this in other countries.)Ībout the dealership, you said " they were going to hook it up to a sort of dialysis machine to "flush" it out." This cracks me up because this is normal operating procedure for a single mechanic (without help) to perform this service. In the US, there is no requirement to have maintenance items accomplished at a dealership to maintain your warranty. Other than cost, there is usually no problems using a dealership, so please do not misunderstand. Mind you, there are always going to be deals to be had, keep on the look out for these from your dealerships. Your cost is going to usually be the best at these locations. Find a smaller local maintenance shop you can trust (usually found through word of mouth) and use them. Chain stores are not going to be much better as far as cost and they tend to try and do add-on items (ie: you go in for an oil change and they tell you you need to have x, y, and z done as well). This is just my opinion, but my experience tells me dealerships overcharge on these types items. ![]() stay away from dealerships for regular maintenance items (like oil changes, radiator flushes, brake fluid replacement, etc) unless you get free scheduled maintenance from them. It may even get to the point where it is dark brown or even black.Īs for the price you were quoted, my first rule of thumb is. As it gets to the point of needing changed, it becomes a darker amber color. When brake fluid is new, it has a very light amber color to it. take the top off on older metal reservoirs and shine the flashlight down into the liquid). You can tell how your own brake fluid is doing by shining a flashlight through the liquid (easy on a white plastic type master cylinder. It seems the general rule of thumb for replacement is recommended at two years. People just don't think about it unless there is a leak. In my opinion, the brake fluid is one of the most overlooked maintenance items in your vehicle. This can be accomplished using a power bleeder, or the old have a friend pump the brakes for you. When you are done with all four wheels using this method, all old brake fluid will have been changed. On four wheel vehicles you only have on wheel left. ![]() Then move to the front on the side you started with. Then go to the opposite side and do the other rear brake. For you peoples across the pond, I suspect your master cylinder is on the right side of the car, so start with the back left. ![]() In left hand drive cars (US), start at the bake right. To change the brake fluid, you start by bleeding the brakes at the furthest point away from the master cylinder. These bubbles will compress where the liquid will not, thus reducing the effectiveness of your braking system. As the fluid gets older, it has the propensity to boil easier, which will cause bubbles in your brake lines. This becomes important, because as you use the brakes, the fluid gains temperature due to friction of the brakes and such. Depending on the fluid you are using (usually DOT3 or DOT4), as brake fluid becomes wet, it will boil at a lower temperature. When it gets old and absorbs water, it is in a "wet" state. When fresh fluid is in the system, the fluid is in a dry state. The reason for this is that brake fluid absorbs water over time. Some manufacturers may have something else, so start there first. I believe normal intervals are either two or three years as your manual says. You should do this as your owner's manual prescribes. ![]() The way you do it, all old break fluid will be removed and new fluid in its place. When you replace brake fluid you are "flushing" the system. ![]()
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